It occured to me that although I recommended and highlighted Porto in the last few posts. I really did not detail the city as much as I should have. So here is some important information.
The City
The city of Porto (also known internationally as Oporto) is the second biggest city of Portugal with around 250'000 inhabitants (the set of involving cities in the Metropolitan Area of Porto has 1'000'000 inhabitants) and its origin goes back to 800 BC. Known by its famous Port Wine it's also an important commercial and industrial center. Although classified for many as "gray", it does have its proper enchantment at "Ribeira" (near the river) with its small streets and houses accumulated in direction to the Douro river. The many micro-gardens and trees scattered around the city help to "naturalize" the traditional granite of the city.
This conservative look is also visible in the people who, although nice to foreigners, do not like "modern stuff". This attitude influences the homosexual and lesbian population of the city. Most of the gays and lesbians do not show themselves and stay in the shadow. However, and despite this somewhat oppressive ambient there are a few 100% openly gay bars and a pride party is organized since 2001.
Tripeiros
The people of Porto are known by the name of "tripeiros" (hummm: "guts people"), it is said that in virtue of the sacrifice that was made to support the armed forces that were to conquer Ceuta, in 1415. The legend sais that they had offered to the members of an expedition all the quality meat, being for itself with the guts of the abated animals. Therefore, one of traditional plates of the city is the "tripas à moda do Porto" (guts to the way of Porto).
Weather
The city is not gray only in the buildings: the North is the zone where it rains more in Portugal. However, in comparison with the rest of Europe the climate is not bad at all: the minimum temperature rarely goes below 0ºC in the Winter and 10ºC in the summer and the maximums are, normally, greater than 15ºC in the winter and pass the 30ºC in summer.
Monuments and Trips
The Douro riverbanks in Porto and Gaia are classified as Worldwide Heritage and, for those of you who like these things of history, deserves a careful planned walk-about. Part of the "standard" trip is the Dom Luis Bridge (1887), a visit to the Tower of Clérigos (s. XVIII), to the Catherdral (XV to XVIII) and other monumental Churches, the Palace of the Stock Market (1850-1911), the House of the Infant (XIV/XVII), to one of the several you cellars of Port wine (in Gaia) and a upstream stroll. A must is the Majestic Café (1921, 1994) with its Art Noveaux style (with a gallery with painting exhibitions in the basement).
For more information on the area of world heritage visit Área Metropolitana do Porto (Portuguese and English) and Direcção Geral dos Edifícios e Monumentos Nacionais (Portuguese and English)
More information about Port Wine available at Instituto do Vinho do Porto (Portuguese, English and French)
Museums and Exhibitions
Museu Serralves (page in Portuguese and English) of Contemporary Art and the attached Casa of Serralves is an madatory reference for those who like not only to the arts but also the architecture and the gardens. In a more conservative perspective you can visit the National Museum Soares Dos Reis. In terms of displays the renewed Alfândega (old customs house) deserve a previous check.
The city of Porto (also known internationally as Oporto) is the second biggest city of Portugal with around 250'000 inhabitants (the set of involving cities in the Metropolitan Area of Porto has 1'000'000 inhabitants) and its origin goes back to 800 BC. Known by its famous Port Wine it's also an important commercial and industrial center. Although classified for many as "gray", it does have its proper enchantment at "Ribeira" (near the river) with its small streets and houses accumulated in direction to the Douro river. The many micro-gardens and trees scattered around the city help to "naturalize" the traditional granite of the city.
This conservative look is also visible in the people who, although nice to foreigners, do not like "modern stuff". This attitude influences the homosexual and lesbian population of the city. Most of the gays and lesbians do not show themselves and stay in the shadow. However, and despite this somewhat oppressive ambient there are a few 100% openly gay bars and a pride party is organized since 2001.
Tripeiros
The people of Porto are known by the name of "tripeiros" (hummm: "guts people"), it is said that in virtue of the sacrifice that was made to support the armed forces that were to conquer Ceuta, in 1415. The legend sais that they had offered to the members of an expedition all the quality meat, being for itself with the guts of the abated animals. Therefore, one of traditional plates of the city is the "tripas à moda do Porto" (guts to the way of Porto).
Weather
The city is not gray only in the buildings: the North is the zone where it rains more in Portugal. However, in comparison with the rest of Europe the climate is not bad at all: the minimum temperature rarely goes below 0ºC in the Winter and 10ºC in the summer and the maximums are, normally, greater than 15ºC in the winter and pass the 30ºC in summer.
Monuments and Trips
The Douro riverbanks in Porto and Gaia are classified as Worldwide Heritage and, for those of you who like these things of history, deserves a careful planned walk-about. Part of the "standard" trip is the Dom Luis Bridge (1887), a visit to the Tower of Clérigos (s. XVIII), to the Catherdral (XV to XVIII) and other monumental Churches, the Palace of the Stock Market (1850-1911), the House of the Infant (XIV/XVII), to one of the several you cellars of Port wine (in Gaia) and a upstream stroll. A must is the Majestic Café (1921, 1994) with its Art Noveaux style (with a gallery with painting exhibitions in the basement).
For more information on the area of world heritage visit Área Metropolitana do Porto (Portuguese and English) and Direcção Geral dos Edifícios e Monumentos Nacionais (Portuguese and English)
More information about Port Wine available at Instituto do Vinho do Porto (Portuguese, English and French)
Museums and Exhibitions
Museu Serralves (page in Portuguese and English) of Contemporary Art and the attached Casa of Serralves is an madatory reference for those who like not only to the arts but also the architecture and the gardens. In a more conservative perspective you can visit the National Museum Soares Dos Reis. In terms of displays the renewed Alfândega (old customs house) deserve a previous check.
City Festivities
The biggest festivity of the city is São João (night of 23 to 24 of June): in an unparalleled manifestation thousands of people of all ages come to the streets "armed" with little hammers and a special garlic. During ALL the night, they walk in the streets hitting each other's heads without exceptions (including agents of the authority, the president of the republic and others politicians). Normally the "activity" starts downtown at about 21:00 moving later for the Ribeira for the fantastic fire-works at midnight. Later, for the ones with better legs, the night finishes in beaches of Foz.
The city is also decorated by occasion of the Christmas and New Year with street shows and fire-works downtown.
In 2001 Porto had its fist GLBT Pride Week including a very successfull Porto Pride party (photo), in 2006 the first Pride Parade was organized.
Also in 2001 the first Elektro Parade took place (similar to Love Parade in Berlim). It the first edition it gather more than 50'000 people and 21 trucks (including a gay truck with the support of PortugalGay.PT), however the event stopped in 2003 and there are no plans to repeat it...
Theater and Shows
Teatro Nacional São João (Portuguese only), the Municipal Theater Rivoli and the Coliseu do Porto (unofficial page Portuguese only) are the main show rooms of the city with theater plays and great operas. Other important places are National Audithorium S. Carlos and the Theater of Campo Alegre (that also houses theater company Seiva Trupe).
There are some great regular cultural events in the city: the FantasPorto (International Film Festival) and the International Comics Fair in February; the Festival Intercéltico in March; Festival de Marionetas in May; FITEI (International Festival of Theater of Iberian Expression), the Fair of the Book and the Festival Ritmos (World Music) in June; Concerts Ritual Rock in August; Great Night of the Fado in September; International Competition of Music and the International Festival of Jazz of Porto in October; Fair of the Handscraft in November; PO.N.T.I. (Porto Natal Teather Internacional) in December.
Cinemas
All cinemas in Porto have surround systems, and a choice of more than 40 rooms mainly in the new shopping malls (ArrábidaShopping counts with 20 and most of the other shopping centers have multiplexes etc...). By norm the seats are not reserved and the tickets are cheaper on mondays (about €3.50 against the €5.00 standard rate). Normally in Portugal the films are original versions with subtitles.
Shopping
After check out the Wine of the Port the shopping in Porto is divided between the traditional commerce downtown and the Shopping Malls (the biggest ones are ArrábidaShopping and NorteShopping). The new (2006) El Corte Inglés department store balaced the things in favor of Gaia.
Trânsit and Local Transportation
The transit in the city can be become truly chaotic during the week peek hours, so its advisable for the novices to use the bus or taxi. At night the reverse is true: use a car or get a cab or buses only when necessary (but if you check the timetable in STCP webpage you can reduce waiting times to minimum).
Although the daily pre-paid tickets are more economic (available in the STCP boots, post offices and some magazines kiosks), you can buy a ticket in the bus if needed (about €1,00).
The parking costs between €0,50 and €1,50 per hour
More information about Buses available at STCP (Portuguese and English).
The Metro of Porto is in service since 2002 with a new rechargeable ticket "Andante". The network was divided in areas with tickets starting for 2 zones. A tipical trip (2 to 3 zones) is about 1.00 EUR, and for less that 2.00 EUR one can travel the full extent of the subway network (between Gaia and Póvoa) a trip that will take almost 75 minutes and covers 7 fare zones. Ticket machines are available on all stations (without any assistance besides the mostly helpful security staff), but you must check your fare zones in advance at the network map (also available in all stations but not necessarly near the ticke machines).
More information about the Metro service available at Metro do Porto (Portuguese and English).
PortugalGay.PT Directory has information the subway and bus lines near LGBT spots.
Airport
The Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport (airport code: OPO) is about 11 km from the city and has connections to more than the 30 international destinations. If you don't want to use a Rent-a-Car Service or Cab, the Subway station access is via the -1 level (trip takes 30 to 45 minutes, fare is less than 1.50 EUR), there is also a regular STCP bus (N 601) almost all day and night (the trip takes 45 minutes).
More information about the Airports available at ANA (Portuguese and English).
The biggest festivity of the city is São João (night of 23 to 24 of June): in an unparalleled manifestation thousands of people of all ages come to the streets "armed" with little hammers and a special garlic. During ALL the night, they walk in the streets hitting each other's heads without exceptions (including agents of the authority, the president of the republic and others politicians). Normally the "activity" starts downtown at about 21:00 moving later for the Ribeira for the fantastic fire-works at midnight. Later, for the ones with better legs, the night finishes in beaches of Foz.
The city is also decorated by occasion of the Christmas and New Year with street shows and fire-works downtown.
In 2001 Porto had its fist GLBT Pride Week including a very successfull Porto Pride party (photo), in 2006 the first Pride Parade was organized.
Also in 2001 the first Elektro Parade took place (similar to Love Parade in Berlim). It the first edition it gather more than 50'000 people and 21 trucks (including a gay truck with the support of PortugalGay.PT), however the event stopped in 2003 and there are no plans to repeat it...
Theater and Shows
Teatro Nacional São João (Portuguese only), the Municipal Theater Rivoli and the Coliseu do Porto (unofficial page Portuguese only) are the main show rooms of the city with theater plays and great operas. Other important places are National Audithorium S. Carlos and the Theater of Campo Alegre (that also houses theater company Seiva Trupe).
There are some great regular cultural events in the city: the FantasPorto (International Film Festival) and the International Comics Fair in February; the Festival Intercéltico in March; Festival de Marionetas in May; FITEI (International Festival of Theater of Iberian Expression), the Fair of the Book and the Festival Ritmos (World Music) in June; Concerts Ritual Rock in August; Great Night of the Fado in September; International Competition of Music and the International Festival of Jazz of Porto in October; Fair of the Handscraft in November; PO.N.T.I. (Porto Natal Teather Internacional) in December.
Cinemas
All cinemas in Porto have surround systems, and a choice of more than 40 rooms mainly in the new shopping malls (ArrábidaShopping counts with 20 and most of the other shopping centers have multiplexes etc...). By norm the seats are not reserved and the tickets are cheaper on mondays (about €3.50 against the €5.00 standard rate). Normally in Portugal the films are original versions with subtitles.
Shopping
After check out the Wine of the Port the shopping in Porto is divided between the traditional commerce downtown and the Shopping Malls (the biggest ones are ArrábidaShopping and NorteShopping). The new (2006) El Corte Inglés department store balaced the things in favor of Gaia.
Trânsit and Local Transportation
The transit in the city can be become truly chaotic during the week peek hours, so its advisable for the novices to use the bus or taxi. At night the reverse is true: use a car or get a cab or buses only when necessary (but if you check the timetable in STCP webpage you can reduce waiting times to minimum).
Although the daily pre-paid tickets are more economic (available in the STCP boots, post offices and some magazines kiosks), you can buy a ticket in the bus if needed (about €1,00).
The parking costs between €0,50 and €1,50 per hour
More information about Buses available at STCP (Portuguese and English).
The Metro of Porto is in service since 2002 with a new rechargeable ticket "Andante". The network was divided in areas with tickets starting for 2 zones. A tipical trip (2 to 3 zones) is about 1.00 EUR, and for less that 2.00 EUR one can travel the full extent of the subway network (between Gaia and Póvoa) a trip that will take almost 75 minutes and covers 7 fare zones. Ticket machines are available on all stations (without any assistance besides the mostly helpful security staff), but you must check your fare zones in advance at the network map (also available in all stations but not necessarly near the ticke machines).
More information about the Metro service available at Metro do Porto (Portuguese and English).
PortugalGay.PT Directory has information the subway and bus lines near LGBT spots.
Airport
The Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport (airport code: OPO) is about 11 km from the city and has connections to more than the 30 international destinations. If you don't want to use a Rent-a-Car Service or Cab, the Subway station access is via the -1 level (trip takes 30 to 45 minutes, fare is less than 1.50 EUR), there is also a regular STCP bus (N 601) almost all day and night (the trip takes 45 minutes).
More information about the Airports available at ANA (Portuguese and English).
Train
Using the Alfa/InterCidades service it takes 3h30 to get to Lisbon, 1h00 to Braga and 2h20 for Coimbra. These trains leave of the Campanhã Station but the ticket is valid also for the connection to Station S. Bento. The Porto-Lisbon trip costs between €20,00 and €25,00 in 2nd class depending on the chosen schedule. These trains have bar, meals and mobile phone services.
There are regional trains form São Bento Station for Coimbra, Tua, Régua, Valença, Viana do Castelo, Nine and from Campanhã Station to Pocinho. The old train stations of Trindade and Avenida de França stations are now served by the Metro of the city.
More information about Trains available at CP (Portuguese and English)
Using the Alfa/InterCidades service it takes 3h30 to get to Lisbon, 1h00 to Braga and 2h20 for Coimbra. These trains leave of the Campanhã Station but the ticket is valid also for the connection to Station S. Bento. The Porto-Lisbon trip costs between €20,00 and €25,00 in 2nd class depending on the chosen schedule. These trains have bar, meals and mobile phone services.
There are regional trains form São Bento Station for Coimbra, Tua, Régua, Valença, Viana do Castelo, Nine and from Campanhã Station to Pocinho. The old train stations of Trindade and Avenida de França stations are now served by the Metro of the city.
More information about Trains available at CP (Portuguese and English)
The Night
The more agitated night (and in the Port this means AGITATED) is Saturday starting in the bars at 22:00 and moving to the discos well after the 2:00. Fridays are also an interesting alternative. Although less popular, Sunday nights and Wednesdays also have some followers.
Rolotes in Foz, the "Big-Ben" and the restaurants "Tropical", (opened all the night) are an almost obligator point of pass to recover energies.
The 100% gay night is limited to the bars, but it is worth it to get a discrete skip (affection shows between people of the same sex will not be tolerated and result in summary expulsion of discos) to the some hetero discos that are open until the first hours of the morning.
Stay
There are places for all likes from the Meridien and Sheraton Hotels till the 3 stars "Pensões". For those who want the gay night and, simultaneously, be closer to the city center a pension or a low-cost hotel in the downtown zone could be an interesting choice since they are economic and prevents some displacement by car.
Phones
The fixed phones of Porto start with "22". You can call any national number directly without aditional preffixes. If using a GSM phone simply add "+351" before the 9-digit phone number.
Usefull Phone Numbers
Please note: same of these are Portuguese-only speaking.
| Emergency Emergency (Free) 112 Poisonings 217950143 Hospital Geral St. António 222077500 Hospital Maria Pia (Children) 226089900 Maternidade Júlio Diniz 226087400 Hospital Matosinhos 229391010 Hospital Prelada 228326464 Hospital Santa Maria 225504844 Hospital São João 225512100 Turism Francisco Sá Carneiro Airport 229413260 Campanhã Station 225364141 S. Bento Station 222002722 Turism Office Pç D. João I 222057514 Turism Office Airport 229412534 | Other Numbers Museums 226066207 Mercado Ferreira Borges 222002022 Biblioteca Municipal 225193480 Romântico Museum 226002158 City Hall 222097000 Palácio de Cristal 226099941 Parque da Cidade 226106391 Parques e Recreio 226096945 Quinta da Macieirinha 226091131 Pavilhão Rosa Mota 226099947 Polícia Municipal 226198260 Casa do Roseiral 226002440 Casa Tait 226066207 Feira Popular 226104731 Teatro Municipal Rivoli 223392200 Trânsit (Veículos Rebocados) 222004664 |
Links
More information about Gay places (and others) available at PortugalGay Directory (Portuguese and English).
More information about the City available at Câmara Municipal do Porto (Portuguese only).
More information about the Theater, Cinema, Bars available at Eventos Culturais (Portuguese only) from CMP and Agenda (Portuguese only) from the Ministry of the Culture.
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